16 Votes
Runway Reviews: Dior Couture, Armani Prive Couture
http://www.fashionweekdaily.com —
The house's first show sans creative director John Galliano was predictably, a bit uneven. The supreme confidence and polish (more like a few layers of lacquer) that governed Galliano's aesthetic at Dior will naturally be rethought, reworked, and reinterpreted by whoever comes next. For the moment, the much-liked Bill Gaytten has taken the creative reins at both Dior and John Galliano. The master's longtime protegée is no Sarah Burton—he is more prone to a sassy shake-up than a quiet, thoughtful evolution. Which is all well and good—if the clothes look sublime. The first thought: Eighties! (Pastels, the black and white, the general boxiness.) The next: Architecture! (Not of the Costa variety, unfortunately.) While some of the quote-unquote day pieces may sell, will the Dior couture client signing up for those ruffled, micropleated evening looks?

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