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Christian Dior
While the who-will-it-be fracas continues at Dior, stand-in creative director Bill Gaytten shifted the brand's spotlight on Monday, to an earlier time when the house's buzz stemmed from its designs over its designer. Karlie Kloss opened the show, waltzing down the catwalk at the atelier's Avenue Montaigne salons in the brand's most widely covered creation in its 65-year history: the New Look, made popular in 1947 with post-war society debs fawning over the full-skirt and cinched waist silhouette. Gaytten riffed on the trademark retro cut while highlighting the house's artistry with a medley of lavish detailing including floral embroidery and ostrich paillettes, nostalgic corsetry and basting stitchwork—all atop floaty silk crepe and barely-there chiffon in beige, black and white, aubergine, and a splash of scarlet. Wearable? Sure. Pretty? Absolument! But, is it enough to secure Gaytten the top seat at the house?
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